Brayton Barff Through the Seasons.
Set in the Vale of York, South West of the market town of Selby and between the villages of Thorpe Willoughby and Brayton, lies Brayton Barff, a sandstone Hill approximately one hundred and fifty feet in height which was formed by glacial movement during the last Ice Age. It is a significant landmark in an otherwise flat landscape.
Today the site is primarily owned by Yorkshire Water with Selby District Council owning a small patch of the land adjacent to the A63 Selby bypass. A large underground reservoir occupies the centre of the site which delivers water to around 4.7 million customers throughout Yorkshire.
Within the Barff woodland over 40% of the trees are Sessile Oak which are generally found in semi natural woodlands in the north of the country. These trees are so called because its acorns are not held on stalks, like those of the English Oak (Pedunculate), but attached directly to the outer twigs. There are also several English Oak trees as well as some cross-hybrid oaks. These trees are known to support many species of flora and fauna, invertebrates, mosses, lichen and fungi.
During the Victorian times it is thought that the shipbuilders on the east coast would come over to the Barff for selected cuts of timber to build their sea going vessels.
The Barff also has a variety of other trees including Silver Birch, Beech, Sycamore, Holly, Rowan, Scots Pine, Alder, Hawthorne and European Larch. There are also several Yew, Willow, Hazel, Horse Chestnut and Wych Elm. As with similar woodlands there are a variety of bushes, including Honeysuckle, Elderberry, Gorse, Broom and Buddleia.
The history of Brayton Barff is quite vague, apparently during 1803 a beacon was lit on the Barff when the country was threatened with an invasion by Napoleon. In May 1935, to celebrate King George V's Silver Jubilee, a Bonfire was lit on the Barff as part of the celebrations.
Early issues of Ordnance Survey Maps dated 1903 clearly show a rifle range on the Barff, extending out to Mill Lane. During the Second World War 1939-1945 a Prisoner of War Camp was built on the site. Today, nothing is left of these buildings less some areas to the South and West of the Barff where some of the brick foundations may be seen.
Between 2001 – 2004 the A63 Selby bypass, 10km twin lane single carriageway was constructed which severed the South West corner of the Barff, adjacent to Selby Golf Course and resulted in a slight redesign of several holes on the golf course. Wooden fencing was erected as a result of this new road running alongside of the Barff and a footbridge constructed over the ‘new road’ following the line of the Bridal way which extends from Mill Lane. Around 2005/2006 a definite 2metre wide limestone aggregate footpath was laid forming a circular path around the outer edges of the woodland. This footpath is approximately 1.2 miles in length and takes about 30 minutes to circumnavigate at a leisurely pace.
In 2012 the Barff was declared an Ancient Oak Woodland and as such throughout 2012 and 2013 significant work had been carried out by the relevant agencies to cut and remove large swathes of non-native trees, creating at that time huge scars on the landscape. Some three years later the planting of the native trees have become well established and are flourishing. Ongoing maintenance work on the footpath around the bottom of the Barff was completed during the Summer of 2016.
A second phase of woodland maintenance commenced during the Autumn of 2019 with the removal of many old and diseased trees and the cutting back of the Gorse and Broom bushes, especially adjacent to the ‘bypass trail’, this work continued through till March 2020 with re planting continuing into April 2020.
Brayton Barff is a popular site for walkers and bird watchers alike and a path circling the outer perimeter of the Barff makes a pleasant thirty minute walk, giving views looking over towards Selby and the village of Brayton as well as the power stations of Drax and Eggborough.
For the early risers it is a great place to see some stunning sunrises over the villages of Brayton looking towards Drax Power Station, the same with the Sunsets looking over towards Eggborough and Monk Fryston.
The Barff changes with the Seasons and every visit can reveal something new, the woodland is a haven for wildlife. Records show that since 1982 one hundred and twelve species of bird have been seen in the woodland and at least 40 of those have bred here, including Tawny Owl, Buzzard, Green Woodpecker, Spotted Flycatcher, Goldcrest and Nuthatch to name just a few. On average over 70 species of bird are recorded each year. Further details of the bird life on the Barff can be found on the Brayton Barff Group Facebook page, especially the posts from Derek Cooper. Today ‘The Friends of Brayton Barff group’ led by Derek and a small team of volunteers help keep and maintain the cleanliness of the site as well as recording the wildlife and bird sightings.
The Barff is also home to fifteen different species of mammals, including Muntjac Deer, Pipistrelle Bat, Fox, and Field Vole.
Over eighty species of plant and wildflowers have been recorded, included Bee Orchid, Northern Marsh Orchid, Wood Anemone, Marsh Ragwort, Bluebell, White Bluebell, Bittersweet and Purple and White Foxgloves. Over twenty species of Butterfly have been recorded, including Marbled White, Brown Angus, Speckled Wood, Comma and Brimstone.
During the Autumnal months fungi thrives in this woodland environment, species including Fly Agaric, Beefsteak Tree Fungi, Chicken of the Wood, Sulphur Tufts, Stinkhorn, Ink cap, Puffballs and Hoof Bracket are just some of the many varieties that can be found here.
Click on the galleries shown below to expand the albums.
May 2024
Here we are at the end of May and nearly halfway through the year. The Met office have said that May has been the wettest and warmest on record, with an average daily temperature of 13.1c, beating the previous record in 2008 by a full 1c, making it the warmest May since 1884! The Country has also seen its wettest Spring since 1986 and the sixth wettest on record. An average of 301.7mm of rain fell on the country across March, April, and May, 32per cent more than usual.
The Barff has changed considerably from the beginning of the month, the tree canopy is now full, the Bluebells have finished flowering and have been smothered by the ferns and nettles, Garlic Mustard has already flowered along the perimeter footpath and has been smothered out by Cow Parsley, Nettles, Herb Robert and Hogweed. As I write this note (towards the end of May) the Barff is looking very green and lush, the undergrowth is growing at an alarming rate, in some places narrowing the perimeter footpath, daily birdsong has been amazing especially with the Chiffchaff and Comon Warbler complementing the regulars, and best of all is that we have lots of squeaky trees, with Nuthatch. Blue Tits, Greater Spotted Woodpeckers and Tree Creepers to name just a few, all busily rearing their young families. It was good to hear the Cuckoo on the Barff towards the middle of May, though it was only an overnight visit. We have also seen an array of fungi sometimes shooting up what seems like overnight, including the colourful Chicken of the Woods fungi and Yellow Brain Fungi. It is nice to see several patches of the Ragged Robin and Cuckoo plant on the top meadow. I have been keeping a close eye on the Marsh Orchid as it comes into flower. I know they are on the Barff but am still looking for the Bee Orchids, lets hope I can find them over the next few weeks before they get smothered in the long grass. The flowering Honeysuckle is thriving in many places around the woodland and producing a very pleasant fragrance which drifts across the paths and tracks of the Barff. Roll on Summer.
Here’s my notes and observations for May 2024:
Saturday 4th May. Having been away in the Lake district this past week, this morning was my first opportunity to visit the Barff since my return. Early morning rain had made the paths and tracks around the woodland wet and slippery. It was a pleasant 10c though quite dull, cloudy, and overcast. The Barff was looking extremely lush and colourful, the Bluebells were still flowering nicely and giving off a sweet scent, they certainly look better when it is dull and overcast than they do in bright sunshine. Ferns, Sycamore seedlings and nettles are shooting up and within a week or so will be crowding out the Bluebells. Since my last visit a week ago, Rowan and Hawthorn have started to flower, Foxgloves which have been dormant over the winter months have started to shoot up, I noticed many this morning standing at over twelve inches in height.
Sunday 5th May, I was on the Barff early this morning (6.15am) it was a bright and sunny mornings walk 12c. Lots of birdsong, Robin, Wren and Chaffinch being especially vocal this morning.
Monday 6th May. Another bright and sunny morning 13c. The Barff is looking exceptionally green and lush at the moment. We popped up there again this afternoon for another walk around, it had warmed up nicely to 18c, and remaining dry and lots of afternoon sunshine though there was a cooling westerly breeze.
Tuesday 7th May. We woke up to a dull and cloudy morning, and on the Barff for just after 6.00am, It was a pleasant 12c, there was a lot of birdsong, with the Song Thrush taking centre stage today, accompanied by Wren, Robin and occasionally the Wood Pidgeon. I disturbed two big Roe deer grazing close to the service road on the Barff this morning, I am pleased that they both ran off in the opposite direction otherwise they would have flattened me. A pair of Mistle Thrushes were making a lot of noise in the car park and being hounded by a Crow. The afternoon walk was dry, bright, and sunny, 18c, the Mistle Thrush still very noisy in the car park, I suspect they were still protecting their nest from the invading Crows.
Wednesday 8th May. It was a much cooler morning today. 8C, with a cold westerly breeze. The Bluebells were still looking good. A large Chicken of the Wood fungi had suddenly shot up on one of the trees on the perimeter footpath, its cream and orange colour quite noticeable from the car park. Fortunately, our afternoon walk was much warmer at 21C, bright and sunny and dry underfoot. The warmth brought out a lot of Mayfly.
Thursday 9th May. 2024, A lovely dry morning 12c, birdsong was vibrant this morning with Chiffchaff, Blackcaps, Robins and Garden Warblers all giving it a good blast, they were ably accompanied by the Thrush and Wren. I heard my first Cuckoo of the year on our walk on the Barff this morning, most of the adult birds will have or are in the middle of laying their eggs at this time. As you will know the parent bird deposits her egg in a host’s nest, probably that of a Meadow Pipet or Dunnock, once laid she leaves the egg to be raised by the host bird. Cuckoos don’t tend to hang around and by June will have flown to Africa. Sadly, the Cuckoo is a ‘Red List’ species according to the ‘2021 UK Conservation Status Report’, Red is the highest conservation priority, with species on this list needing urgent action. Unfortunately, they are globally threatened, with big declines in breeding populations and ranges. Let’s hope the one we heard today survives and is able to return to the Barff next year.
Friday 10th May, It was a lovely dry and sunny morning. No breeze. I heard the Cuckoo again at 8.15am on the top of Tap Hill area. The grass verges around the perimeter footpath continue to grow apace, Creeping and Meadow Buttercup add some colour, along with Red and White flowering Campion. Herb Robert seems to be growing twice as fast as everything else.
Saturday 11th May was a beautiful, bright, dry, and sunny morning, 12c, lots of birdsong, Willow Warblers are becoming more frequent, I enjoy listening to their soft creamy tones, the Blackbirds were quite chirpy this morning too, along with several Dunnocks and Robin, all lovely to hear. Ferns are growing at an alarming rate along with Foxgloves and Millet grass, Bramble runners are starting to become a problem again shooting up all over the place.
Sunday 12th May. It was a cool start to the day, 8c. The woodland was looking very lush and green, the main perimeter footpath is beginning to narrow in places due to the overgrown verges, main culprit Cow Parsley and Garlic Mustard.
Monday 13th May. A dry bright and very humid walk this morning, lots of birdsong again, Chiffchaff, Blackcap, Chaffinch, Wren, and the Common Wood Pigeon all contributing to this morning’s chorus. The farmers were out on their tractors tending to the fields, trying to make the most of the current dry weather. The Oilseed rape field opposite Barff entrance is currently a vibrant yellow. This afternoon’s walk was dry and bright, 21c with a cool westerly breeze. Lots of Holly in flower, the ferns looked to have grown a couple of inches since this morning’s walk.
Tuesday 14th May, a very wet and rainy mornings walk, v humid, 15c. The ferns and nettles are starting to cover the Bluebells. Our afternoon walk with Jen was dull and v humid, 18c with heavy rain showers. Fortunately, the tree canopies protected us from the heaviest of the rain.
Wednesday 15th May was an overcast and cloudy morning, light rain, and drizzle in the air. Ragged Robin and Cuckoo plant in flower on top of the Barff. Despite looking I have not yet spotted any Orchids yet. This afternoon’s walk was very humid at 17c, it was damp and drizzly with intermittent sunshine. Cow Parsley in full flower and 6ft tall in places, Herb Robert also in full flower, along with Creeping Buttercups.
Thursday 16th May, a very humid morning, dull and overcast, no wind. Slippery underfoot from yesterday’s rain. Hawthorn blossom was falling like confetti from the trees. Ragged Robin and the Red and White Campion looked bright and radiant this morning. The Elderberry bushes are full of flowers, there should be a lot of berries this year. Birdsong was all over the Barff today, Chiffchaff very vocal along with Wren, Robin, and Garden Warbler.
Friday 17th May, Another humid morning, 13C, overcast with light rain showers, the Garlic Mustard has been swamped by the flowering Cow Parsley, some 5ft tall in places. The Bluebells are also being outgrown by the Ferns and Nettles.
Saturday 18th May, 13c, humid walk, light swirling breeze. The main perimeter footpath borders becoming heavily overgrown and encroaching onto the main footpath. I always try to incorporate a visit to the top of the Barff on every visit, especially at this time of year when the Orchids start to appear. There are many types of wildflowers on the summit, as well as the Creeping Buttercup there are several patches of Germander Speedwell, Ragged Robin, Daisy, Red and White Clover, several types of Greater Plantain and Ribwort Plantain to name but a few. It looks there are several patches of Yellow Rattle growing there too.
Sunday 19th May, a cooler morning, 10C, lovely bright sunlight, a cold northwest gentle breeze. The Barff was looking very green and lush this morning, The tree canopy is filling up with broad leaf leaves including Maple & Sycamore etc. Birdsong very active today, even the creaking old Jay provided some accompaniment today. Standing on the top of the Barff looking over towards the rugby club, I always remember when we had a young family, bringing the boys here in the winter months, to sledge down the slope to the very bottom, across the perimeter footpath and crashing into the wooden fence bordering the fields beyond. Unfortunately, today, the bottom part of the slope is densely overgrown with Bramble bushes which would certainly prevent the slope from being used as a toboggan run again, such a shame, mind you, I think the last significant snowfall we had was back in 2010!
Monday 20th May, a Dull, cloudy, and overcast walk, with light drizzle, and a cool north westerly breeze. Lots of birdsong from the Garden Warbler, Chiffchaff, Blackcaps and Great Tits, the Robin kept popping in and out. The farmers were out with their tractors this morning busy working one of the fields. Foxgloves are flowering along with Hogweed; Greater Burdock is shooting up its huge leaves dwarfing the Cow Parsley. Red and White Campion is still in full flower, as is the Ragged Robin.
Tuesday 21st May, A much cooler morning today just 9c. It was very wet with heavy rain showers. The perimeter footpath continues to get narrower due to encroaching Cow Parsley. This afternoon walk round was very humid at 20c, unfortunately the rain was not too far away. There was a lot of activity around the Oak tree in the car park with several Hornets feeding on the leaking sap.
Wednesday 22nd May, A very humid start to the day, the temperature gauge on my watch was reading 13c, at 6.45am, 4 degrees warmer than yesterday. Although humid it was very wet with heavy rain, As much as they dislike them, I had to put Meg and Gracie’s dog jackets on to protect them from the heaviest of the rain.
Thursday 23rd May 2024, a dull, cloudy, and overcast morning 12c. Rain was in the air, with a cool westerly breeze. The tracks and paths were very wet and slippery from yesterday’s 24 hours of non-stop rain. Chiffchaff were very vocal; I heard a lot of squeaky trees with newly hatched baby chicks. The remaining Bluebells have been flattened by yesterday’s rain. I finally found the Marsh Orchid today. Lots of Fungi popping up, the Chicken of the Woods is still visible, along with the Yellow Barin fungus and Birch Polypore.
Friday 24th May. A lovely walk this morning, dull cloudy and overcast, had some rain earlier. Lots of birdsong, Wren, Chiffchaff, Blackcap, Warbler and Dunnock all very vocal. It is nice to see and smell the Honeysuckle flowering today, especially on the Barff Summit. The Marsh Orchid is continuing to grow and flower.
Saturday 25th May, a beautiful, dry sunny morning, 9c, very wet underfoot from a heavy overnight dew. Marsh Orchid continues to grow nicely, Hogweed, Cow Parsley, and Herb Robert in full flower and over a metre tall in places. Creeping Buttercup looking colourful along the upper stretch off the service road as it reaches the summit. Plenty of birdsong this morning, Chiffchaff, Warblers, Dunnocks, Wren and Robin accompanied by the Song Thrush and Wood Pigeon all contributing to this morning’s rendition.
Sunday 26th May, A wet and rainy morning13c, lots of birdsong, from the Chaffinch, Blackbird, Wren, Chiffchaff, Garden Warbler and Song Thrush. Hogweed, Ferns, and Cow Parsley are now standing over five foot tall and the Stinging Nettles aren’t far behind. The Elderberry bushes are in full flower. Tracks and paths remain muddy and slippery. Lots of Red and White Clover and Creeping Buttercup in full flower on the Barff Summit, along with Red and White Campion and two big clumps of Ragged Robin which look a picture when the sunshine’s on them.
Monday 27th May (Bank holiday) a bright and sunny morning, very wet underfoot from yesterday afternoons rain. Lots of birdsong from the Garden Warblers, Song Thrush, Wren, and Chiffchaff. I walked the Bypass route again this morning, and it is surprising how quickly the undergrowth that was cut back last Autumn is regenerating itself, in particular the Blackthorn bushes, these were flattened, today they are shooting up and standing at least 30 cm tall. Lots of Sycamore wings lying all over the ground, not just on this trail but on the Barff itself. No sign of the Poppies yet but lots of Oxeye Daises in full flower swaying gently in the bright morning breeze.
Tuesday 28th May, It was just a short circular walk this morning, 13c, dry bright and sunny with a light westerly breeze. Lots of birdsong with the Song Thrush taking the lead this morning, assisted by the Chiffchaff, Wren, and the lovely tones of the Garden Warbler. The Giant Burdock is growing at an alarming rate, well over a metre tall in places.
Wednesday 29th May. Early morning rain made paths and tracks very wet and slippery this morning. The undergrowth is getting quite dense and is growing at an alarming rate, well over five feet tall in places. Lots of birdsong, which is lovely to hear, Chiffchaff taking the lead this morning along with Dunnock, Wren, Robin and Song Thrush, Blackbird joined in when it could afford the time from scavenging for food under all the leaf litter.
Thursday 30th May 2024, a wet and rainy morning with the occasional sunny period. The tracks were very wet and muddy, once, or twice I had a little slip, fortunately I kept upright! lots of birdsong. The Marsh Orchid continues to grow nicely. The afternoon walk was quite breezy, 14c with sunny periods. Lots of squeaky trees around the perimeter footpath, I watched a Tree Creeper for several minutes feeding its chicks in one of the bird boxes, its chicks popping their heads out the tiny hole hoping to get the first morsels from their feeding parents.
Friday 31st May. There was a dry, cold northerly wind this morning, the sunshine taking the edge of the cold blast. The Marsh Orchid was looking bright and colourful along with the Ragged Robin close by. Willow Warbler and Song Thrush were particularly vocal on the summit of the Barff this morning, along with Chiffchaff, Wren, and Dunnock. The fragrant scent from the flowering Honeysuckle kept drifting across the woodland, its scent lingering in one or two places. The red and white Foxgloves look to be at their best, bees and other insects were busily flying into their huge trumpet shaped florets. I still haven’t found the Bee Orchid yet but will keep looking.
|