Brayton Barff Through the Seasons.
Set in the Vale of York, South West of the market town of Selby and between the villages of Thorpe Willoughby and Brayton, lies Brayton Barff, a sandstone Hill approximately one hundred and fifty feet in height which was formed by glacial movement during the last Ice Age. It is a significant landmark in an otherwise flat landscape.
Today the site is primarily owned by Yorkshire Water with Selby District Council owning a small patch of the land adjacent to the A63 Selby bypass. A large underground reservoir occupies the centre of the site which delivers water to around 4.7 million customers throughout Yorkshire.
Within the Barff woodland over 40% of the trees are Sessile Oak which are generally found in semi natural woodlands in the north of the country. These trees are so called because its acorns are not held on stalks, like those of the English Oak (Pedunculate), but attached directly to the outer twigs. There are also several English Oak trees as well as some cross-hybrid oaks. These trees are known to support many species of flora and fauna, invertebrates, mosses, lichen and fungi.
During the Victorian times it is thought that the shipbuilders on the east coast would come over to the Barff for selected cuts of timber to build their sea going vessels.
The Barff also has a variety of other trees including Silver Birch, Beech, Sycamore, Holly, Rowan, Scots Pine, Alder, Hawthorne and European Larch. There are also several Yew, Willow, Hazel, Horse Chestnut and Wych Elm. As with similar woodlands there are a variety of bushes, including Honeysuckle, Elderberry, Gorse, Broom and Buddleia.
The history of Brayton Barff is quite vague, apparently during 1803 a beacon was lit on the Barff when the country was threatened with an invasion by Napoleon. In May 1935, to celebrate King George V's Silver Jubilee, a Bonfire was lit on the Barff as part of the celebrations.
Early issues of Ordnance Survey Maps dated 1903 clearly show a rifle range on the Barff, extending out to Mill Lane. During the Second World War 1939-1945 a Prisoner of War Camp was built on the site. Today, nothing is left of these buildings less some areas to the South and West of the Barff where some of the brick foundations may be seen.
Between 2001 – 2004 the A63 Selby bypass, 10km twin lane single carriageway was constructed which severed the South West corner of the Barff, adjacent to Selby Golf Course and resulted in a slight redesign of several holes on the golf course. Wooden fencing was erected as a result of this new road running alongside of the Barff and a footbridge constructed over the ‘new road’ following the line of the Bridal way which extends from Mill Lane. Around 2005/2006 a definite 2metre wide limestone aggregate footpath was laid forming a circular path around the outer edges of the woodland. This footpath is approximately 1.2 miles in length and takes about 30 minutes to circumnavigate at a leisurely pace.
In 2012 the Barff was declared an Ancient Oak Woodland and as such throughout 2012 and 2013 significant work had been carried out by the relevant agencies to cut and remove large swathes of non-native trees, creating at that time huge scars on the landscape. Some three years later the planting of the native trees have become well established and are flourishing. Ongoing maintenance work on the footpath around the bottom of the Barff was completed during the Summer of 2016.
A second phase of woodland maintenance commenced during the Autumn of 2019 with the removal of many old and diseased trees and the cutting back of the Gorse and Broom bushes, especially adjacent to the ‘bypass trail’, this work continued through till March 2020 with re planting continuing into April 2020.
Brayton Barff is a popular site for walkers and bird watchers alike and a path circling the outer perimeter of the Barff makes a pleasant thirty minute walk, giving views looking over towards Selby and the village of Brayton as well as the power stations of Drax and Eggborough.
For the early risers it is a great place to see some stunning sunrises over the villages of Brayton looking towards Drax Power Station, the same with the Sunsets looking over towards Eggborough and Monk Fryston.
The Barff changes with the Seasons and every visit can reveal something new, the woodland is a haven for wildlife. Records show that since 1982 one hundred and twelve species of bird have been seen in the woodland and at least 40 of those have bred here, including Tawny Owl, Buzzard, Green Woodpecker, Spotted Flycatcher, Goldcrest and Nuthatch to name just a few. On average over 70 species of bird are recorded each year. Further details of the bird life on the Barff can be found on the Brayton Barff Group Facebook page, especially the posts from Derek Cooper. Today ‘The Friends of Brayton Barff group’ led by Derek and a small team of volunteers help keep and maintain the cleanliness of the site as well as recording the wildlife and bird sightings.
The Barff is also home to fifteen different species of mammals, including Muntjac Deer, Pipistrelle Bat, Fox, and Field Vole.
Over eighty species of plant and wildflowers have been recorded, included Bee Orchid, Northern Marsh Orchid, Wood Anemone, Marsh Ragwort, Bluebell, White Bluebell, Bittersweet and Purple and White Foxgloves. Over twenty species of Butterfly have been recorded, including Marbled White, Brown Angus, Speckled Wood, Comma and Brimstone.
During the Autumnal months fungi thrives in this woodland environment, species including Fly Agaric, Beefsteak Tree Fungi, Chicken of the Wood, Sulphur Tufts, Stinkhorn, Ink cap, Puffballs and Hoof Bracket are just some of the many varieties that can be found here.
Click on the galleries shown below to expand the albums.
June 2024
June has been a lovely month on the Barff. The tree canopy is fully established and forms a huge protective blanket over the woodland. Several highlights have been the lingering scent of the flowering Honeysuckle, drifting across the perimeter footpath and over the Barff summit. Birdsong has been another, no matter what time of day you visit, Chiffchaff, Song Thrush, Garden Warbler and Blackcap have been our leading chorists, accompanied by our regulars Wren, Robin, Blackbirds and Chaffinch, not forgetting the Wood Pigeons too. I have heard and seen lots of squeaky trees with Greater Spotted Woodpecker chicks, Tree Creepers, Long Tailed Tits and Nuthatches being born in the woodland. June has been the month to appreciate the wildflowers. It has been good watching the Marsh Orchid again and a good number of Bee Orchids, (once I had my eyes trained to look for them that is). Cow Parsley, Garlic Mustard and Herb Robert has been prolific this year especially along the edges of the perimeter footpath, being outgrown later in the month by the Hogweed, Giant Burdock, Nettles and Ferns. On the top meadow around Tap Hill, Yorkshire Grass has run amok, along with Creeping Thistle, Heal all, Red and White Clover, Yellow Cinquefoil, Yellow St John’s Wort, Bitter dock, Creeping and Meadow Buttercup, to name just a few of the flowers that I can easily recognise. Ragged Robin has flowered nicely in several places around the top meadow, Red and White Campion is still in flower towards the end of the month. There is lots to see along the Bypass trails too, considering how severe the council contractors cut back the bridal path last autumn, invasive Bramble is now well over the height of the wooden fences which borders the fields, the Blackthorn bushes have regrown and are currently about one metre in height. Clumps of Oxeye Daisy’s are in flower along with Creeping Buttercup, lots of Flowering Hogweed and Poppy can all be found down there.
We have certainly seen a mixed bag of weather this month, the first half has been generally wet and much colder than average for the time of year due to a mid-Atlantic jet stream bringing some colder weather from the north south. Fortunately, we haven’t had the frosts to contend with. The second half of the month saw the temperature rise considerably, as I write this note towards the latter few days of June, the Barff tracks have all dried out, rainfall has been negligible and we have been seeing over twelve hours of sunshine, with the sun rising at 4.30am and not setting till around 9.30pm. Most mornings I am out with the dogs between 6.00am and 7.00am, sometimes earlier, and this last week the temperature has been touching 18c at 7.00am, climbing up to 25c during mid to late afternoon. Unfortunately looking at the predicted forecast the weather for the first week of July looks much cooler and unsettled. Let’s hope we can enjoy a few more days of the sunshine.
Saturday 1st June. A cool early start to the day this morning, being on the Barff for 5.45am, 10c, with a cool North Westerly breeze. The Honeysuckle was extremely fragrant around the woodland. Blackbird, Wren, Chiffchaff and Dunnock were very vocal.
Sunday 2nd June was a bright, dry and sunny morning, lots of birdsong, the perimeter footpath is narrowing due to the invading undergrowth of Herb Robert, Nettles, Hogweed and Creeping Buttercup. Garden Warbler, Chiffchaff, Wren, and Song Thrush were very vocal.
Tuesday 4th June, an early start this morning being on the Barff for 6.00am. it was very humid, 14c, dull, cloudy and overcast morning. The Garden Warbler and Chiffchaff were very vocal this morning, with strong competition from the Robins and Wrens. The sweet smell of the Honeysuckle filled the air around the summit of the woodland. The Marsh Orchid is flowering nicely, though I still have not yet found the Bee Orchid! We had a lovely afternoon walk on the Barff this afternoon, with light rain showers and occasional sunny periods. The Chiffchaff were extremely vocal. Herb Robert is filling out and flowering along both sides of the perimeter footpath and Hogweed and Giant Burdock causing the narrowing of the main circular footpath in several areas.
Wednesday 5th June, a beautiful, cool, and sunny morning. Chiffchaff, Garden Warbler and Wren making their voices heard in a collage of song. A pair of Jays flew over with their distinctive screeching call making themselves heard above the birdsong. It was one of those mornings when I could have stopped out all day.
Thursday 6th June, another beautiful bright and sunny morning. The Honeysuckle scent was very strong on the top of Tap Hill this morning. Birdsong was vibrant with Chiffchaff, Blackcap and Song Thrush, I noticed several Greater Spotted Woodpeckers taking grubs back to the squeaky trees, lovely to spend a few minutes listening to and watching the woodland birds. Still no sign of the Bee Orchids, but Ragged Robin, White and Red Campion was flowering nicely, Yellow Rattle is beginning to flower, Creeping Buttercup is in full flower and as its name suggests, is creeping all over the place. Red and White Clover, and Hogweed is flowering too. Foxgloves are looking colourful, their trumpets a haven for Bees and insects especially on the Barff summit but can also be seen around the woodland. One or two Poppies are beginning to flower.
Friday 7th June 2024. A dull, cloudy, and overcast morning 12c. The Marsh Orchid is still flowering nicely, lots of wildflowers on the top meadow including Yellow Rattle, Wild Teasel, Hedge Woundwort, Bitter Dock & Meadow Buttercup, White and Red Clover. Birdsong’ Chiffchaff, Wren, Robin, Chaffinch, Blackbird, Chiffchaff. Still cannot find the Bee Orchid!
Saturday 8th June, had a lovely long walk this morning along the Bypass trail. Overnight rain made the tracks wet and slippery underfoot. The sweet scent of the Honeysuckle drifting across the air. The Chiffchaffs were very vocal this morning. It was lovely to hear several squeaky trees this morning.
Sunday 9th June, A cold Westerly breeze blowing across the Barff this morning, with occasional sunny periods. The sweet-smelling Honeysuckle scent was drifting across the woodland. Goldfinch were singing their heads off along the Bypass Trail. Still cannot find the Bee Orchid, but looking through the top meadow there is lots of Yellow Rattle, and Hedge Woundwort as well as lots of Rosebay Willowherb waiting to flower, Red and White Clover is looking quite dense in places.
Monday 10th June, a wet and rainy walk this morning, twelve hours of continuous rain with a cold westerly breeze and occasionally short sunny spells. The Marsh Orchid is still looking good. A Tree Creeper was busily singing its head off this morning being accompanied by a Goldcrest, their song being very delicate and higher pitched than the Wren and Robin. Robins chaperoned me around the woodland on this mornings walk.
Tuesday 11th June 2024, a beautiful morning with a cold North Westerly breeze, just 9c at 7.00am. The thunderstorms and heavy rain from last evening made several of the tracks very wet and slippery. A pair of Goldfinches flew across my path, just above my head, they were that close I could see the red markings on their faces. Birdsong was especially sweet this morning, Wren, Song Thrush, and Chiffchaff were noisily competing for airtime, accompanied by the steady Wood Pigeon. Robins seemed to chaperone me around the woodland this morning, it was nice to hear the Buzzard calling, I haven’t heard him for several weeks now. The heady scent of the Honeysuckle drifted across the paths, lingering in small pockets sheltered from the cold breeze. I felt as though I had the woodland to myself this morning, not seeing a sole for the one hour and forty-five minutes I was up there for.
Wednesday 12th June, a lovely cool and fresh morning. 10c. sunny periods, light overnight rain making the tracks and paths a little muddy and slippery. The ferns in places are growing at an alarming rate and well over six feet tall as are the nettles and Greater Burdock. The scent from the Honeysuckle was very fragrant this morning. Birdsong was very lively with Wren and Chiffchaff taking the lead vocals, ably supported by Song Thrush, Robin, Blackbird, Blackcap and Coal Tit. I had another good look for the Bee Orchids this morning to no avail, I know they are out there somewhere.
Thursday 12th June, just a short walk on the Barff this morning as I and the dogs were going for a walk around the Castle Howard estate later this morning. We were on the Barff for 6.30am, it was a lovely dry and sunny morning, 8C. Chiffchaff, Wren and Robins were extremely vocal. Nettles and Ferns continue to grow apace, in many areas they are well over six feet tall, the Bramble bushes are still in flower, but their runners are shooting up at an alarming rate and can give you a nasty scratch on the back of your hand if you are not careful. After several weeks of looking, I finally spotted two Bee Orchids today, I found them where they usually are. I took several photographs of them before heading off to have a look in another known area to no avail, so I was quite pleased with myself. It is like looking for a needle in a haystack, the test will be if I can find them again in the morning.
Friday 14th June. A lovely morning, 12c at 6.45am, dry, but wet underfoot from last night’s rain. Very humid, sunny periods. Birdsong was on top form with all the usual contributors playing their part, Chiffchaff, Wren, Chaffinch, Blackbird, Robin, and Great Tit, with accompaniment from the Wood Pigeon. Needless to say, I had a good look for the Bee Orchids that I found yesterday to no avail! Lots of other wildflowers though including Hedge Woundwort. Common Sorrel, Yellow Rattle and the red Yorkshire Fog Grass which is almost a metre tall in places.
Saturday 15th June, Well, here we are halfway through the month and year already. It was a Sunny and cloudy start to the day, 13c and very humid at 7.00am. Wet underfoot from overnight rain, I ventured down the Bypass trail this morning, as I do most weekends, passing a noisy flock of Long Tailed Tits, I recognised their call from the hours I spend at RSPB filming them. I have noticed these past few days a large number of small holes appearing on the tracks around the woodland, these are Bank vole burrows, measuring just over 30mm in diameter, which run into a series of underground tunnels. The Barff provides the ideal habit for the Voles, which are mostly active at night, they can have up to three or four litters a year, each with three to five young. They are a preferred food for our resident Tawny Owls. Despite the wet conditions birdsong was quite vibrant this morning, Blackcap, Wren, Garden Warbler, Chiffchaff, Blackbird and Wood Pigeon all contributing to a beautiful dawn chorus. With the warmth sunny spells and lots of rain, grass, amongst other plants, is shooting up at alarming rate, large areas of Yorkshire Fog grass can be found on the summit meadow, Orchard Grass, Tall Oatgrass and Bent grass can be found all around the perimeter footpath interspaced with Rosebay Willowherb and Stinging Nettle, yet to flower. I noticed lots of yellow Hawksbeard flowering along the golf course side of the bypass trail.
Sunday 16th June. A cooler start to the day, 10c, cloudy and overcast with the sun trying to break through. The perimeter footpath is getting quite narrow in places, I hope the council/Yorkshire water will come and cut the borders back soon. It was very wet underfoot again from overnight rain. Birdsong felt somewhat subdued this morning, A Wren and Chaffinch were having a right sing off between themselves, the Wren to the left of me and the Chaffinch close by my righthand side. The Foxgloves were looking bright and vibrant this morning, droplets of the overnight rain precariously balanced on the long trumpet shaped flowers, it didn’t stop the bees from visiting though. It was nice to see several Poppies out this morning, this past week they have been hammered with the rain unfortunately. Oxeye Daisies continue to provide a splash of colour around the woodland, their daisy like flower a magnet for the bees and insects. Lots of Bank Vole holes appeared overnight on several of the trails.
Monday 17th June. It was very wet underfoot from the overnight rain, 12c and very humid. Dull, cloudy and overcast with rain forecast for later in the day. Chiffchaff. Blackbird and Wren were very vocal this morning, I watched a pair of Greater Spotted Woodpeckers for several minutes feeding their young, the chicks housed in a Silver Birch tree just popping their heads out of the hole, it must be getting quite congested in their nest as the chick grow bigger We had a good walk around the Barff summit, lots of purple flowering ‘Common Selfheal’, Rosebay Willowherb, White Clover and Yorkshire Fog Grass was all over the top meadow. The only Marsh Orchid I have found is just about at its best. I couldn’t find any Bee Orchids this morning though got my feet wet through walking through the long grass looking for them. Patches of ‘Yellow Rattle’ added a bit more colour to the meadow. I haven’t seen or heard any Grey Squirrels recently.
Tuesday 18th June. A lovely morning on the Barff, bright and sunny at 7.00am, 13c, quite humid. I found another Bee Orchid this morning which was great to see. The Garden Warbler was vocal today along with the Chiffchaff and Chaffinch.
Wednesday 19th June. I was on the Barff for 6.30am this morning. It was a beautiful start to the day, 12c, the early morning dew made the grass exceptionally wet. The top meadow looked a picture set against a cloudless blue sky. The sweet scent of the Honeysuckle still fills the air especially near to the car park as well as on the summit trails. Birdsong was amazing, Wren, Chiffchaff, Blackcap, and Blackbird all having a blast accompanied by the gentle, steady, cooing of the Wood pigeon. Huge swathes of Yorkshire Fog Grass covered the meadow area on the top summit, Bitter dock, Red and White Clover, Plantain, Creeping Buttercup and Hawksbeard are just a few of the wildflowers thriving around the woodland at the moment.
Thursday 20th June. Another dry, lovely morning. I found two more Bee Orchids on this morning’s walk. The Elderberry flowers are slowly turning to berries. Bramble runners are shooting up and outwards, they are still in flower. On the top meadow, huge swathes of the ground covering purple coloured ‘Heal all’ are adding more colour along with the Creeping Buttercup. Over towards the top of Tap Hill Creeping Thistle is starting to come into flower, it is currently standing at five feet tall. The Marsh Orchid is just beginning to fade. The scent of Honeysuckle is still drifting across the paths and tracks around the Barff.
Friday 21st June. An absolutely beautiful morning, I was on the Barff a little earlier this morning, at 6.30am the temperature was 15c. A clear blue sky, just a light dew, no matter how hard I looked I couldn’t find any Orchids today, in fact I couldn’t find the ones from yesterday. It was one of those mornings when I could have stayed on the Barff all morning. Birdsong was amazing, Blackcap, Chiffchaff, Wren, Chaffinch and Robin.
Saturday 22nd June. I had another early start this morning and was on the Barff for 6.15am with Meg and Gracie. It was a lovely, bright and sunny morning’s walk 15c, though we had a couple of very light rain showers later in the morning. The perimeter footbath is getting heavily overgrown in places due to the ingress on Nettles, Ferns, Brambles and Burdock, it is long overdue a visit from the council/waterboard grasscutters.
A pair of Greater Spotted Woodpeckers were busily calling to each other high up on some decaying Silver Birch tree, probably wary that a couple of Grey Squirrels were venturing up the same tree as their nest hole. Birdsong was beautiful this morning, the chief chorists the Blackcap and Garden Warbler, very ably accompanied with the Wren, Robin and Wood Pigeon, all very soothing to the ear. As it was the weekend, I ventured down the Bypass trail to Mill Lane, across the bypass and followed the bridal path on the other side of the road back up to the bridge and onto the Barff. I was only thinking to myself this morning that it is less than a year since this bridle path was levelled from all vegetation by the council, and today the Blackthorn shrubs are already over a metre tall, Nettles, Hogweed, flowering White Campion and Brambles are over six feet tall in places. Over on the golfclub side of the trail Yorkshire Fog grass, is well over two feet tall and encroaching the full width of the path, such that your trouser bottoms get wet through after a heavy dew. It was nice to see several patches of red Poppies in full flower this morning, Oxeye daisies has been in flower for several weeks now, though Rosebay Willowherb has just started to flower and brings some added colour to the trail now that the yellow Gorse florets are turning to seed. Several small patches of the lilac-coloured Meadow Crane’s Bill have just come into flower this past couple of days. I found another three Bee Orchids on the Barff meadow this morning.
Monday 24th June. I was on the Barff for 6.00am this morning and what a lovely morning it was too, a little cooler than yesterday at 16c. The perimeter footpath was nice and cool as the dappled sunlight broke through the dense tree canopy. I know I have mentioned it before, but the path is becoming narrower and narrower due to the ingress of Nettles, Ferns, Hogweed and Burdock to name just a few of the invading plant species. I can imagine the visitors with pushchairs will have to be careful in place The scent of the Honeysuckle was beautiful as it drifted across the woodland on the light westerly breeze. I found a couple more Bee Orchids this morning, which are always nice to find. Whilst walking across the top meadow I stopped for several minutes to listen to the lovely tones of the Garden Warbler belting out its beautiful tune, accompanied by the Chiffchaff, Wren, Blackcap and Blue Tit. Creeping Thistle has been growing at an alarming rate and are currently standing at five feet in height, its purple multi headed florets providing a handy supply of nectar for the insects and Bees. Other plants of note on the top meadow were the lovely delicate petals of the yellow flowering Creeping Cinquefoil, Bitter Dock is shooting up its stems covered in seeds, Hogweed is standing at between five and six foot tall and still in flower. The ground covering purple coloured ‘Heal all’ is spreading at an alarming rate on the top meadow and the Fog Grass is looking lovely as it gently sways in the breeze. Patches of Oxford ragwort, standing at about three foot in height will be flowering in the next few days. Brambles are in full flower and are creeping over the woodland chocking everything in its path, its sharp runners branching out across a lot of the smaller tracks around the woodland, unless kept in check they will smother much of the woodland as they are doing on the Barff Summit and down the ‘fire break’ that once upon a time was the main toboggan run on the Barff. I was disappointed to find all the remnants of a disposable BBQ just left on top of, and around one of the inspection covers this morning. This afternoon the temperature rose to a barmy 27c
Tuesday 25th June, a dull cloudy and humid morning, 19c. I had another early start and on the Barff for 6.30am. Lots of new Bank Vole holes around the woodland this morning and lots of birdsong, Blackcap, Chiffchaff, Robin and Wren all having a good sing on the top meadow. I have spent a lot of time up here recently, mainly keeping my eye on the Orchids but cannot believe the different varieties of wildflowers which seem to be thriving up there, including Red and White Campion, Creeping Thistle are growing and flowering a mass amongst the long grasses, Self-Heal is spreading at an alarming rate, this past couple of days the bulbous blue flowering body is shooting up. Meadow Buttercup is providing plenty of colour, along with the Red and White Clover. This afternoon the temperature peaked at 26c.
Wednesday 26th June, a dull and cloudy start to the morning, very humid at 17c. I heard several Grey Squirrels chattering and running along the tree branches this morning, they have been much quieter than normal for this time of year. Lots more Bank Vole holes are appearing on the tracks around the woodland. Chiffchaff and Garden Warbler were battling for top spot in the birdsong chart this morning, closely followed by the tiny Wren. The Bee Orchids are still looking good, large areas of yellow flowering St John’s Wort have come into flower and blue ‘Heal all’ seems to have suddenly come to life. Another very warm, hot and sunny day with the afternoon temperature rising to 26c. phew.
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