Brayton Barff Through the Seasons.
Set in the Vale of York, South West of the market town of Selby and between the villages of Thorpe Willoughby and Brayton, lies Brayton Barff, a sandstone Hill approximately one hundred and fifty feet in height which was formed by glacial movement during the last Ice Age. It is a significant landmark in an otherwise flat landscape.
Today the site is primarily owned by Yorkshire Water with Selby District Council owning a small patch of the land adjacent to the A63 Selby bypass. A large underground reservoir occupies the centre of the site which delivers water to around 4.7 million customers throughout Yorkshire.
Within the Barff woodland over 40% of the trees are Sessile Oak which are generally found in semi natural woodlands in the north of the country. These trees are so called because its acorns are not held on stalks, like those of the English Oak (Pedunculate), but attached directly to the outer twigs. There are also several English Oak trees as well as some cross-hybrid oaks. These trees are known to support many species of flora and fauna, invertebrates, mosses, lichen and fungi.
During the Victorian times it is thought that the shipbuilders on the east coast would come over to the Barff for selected cuts of timber to build their sea going vessels.
The Barff also has a variety of other trees including Silver Birch, Beech, Sycamore, Holly, Rowan, Scots Pine, Alder, Hawthorne and European Larch. There are also several Yew, Willow, Hazel, Horse Chestnut and Wych Elm. As with similar woodlands there are a variety of bushes, including Honeysuckle, Elderberry, Gorse, Broom and Buddleia.
The history of Brayton Barff is quite vague, apparently during 1803 a beacon was lit on the Barff when the country was threatened with an invasion by Napoleon. In May 1935, to celebrate King George V's Silver Jubilee, a Bonfire was lit on the Barff as part of the celebrations.
Early issues of Ordnance Survey Maps dated 1903 clearly show a rifle range on the Barff, extending out to Mill Lane. During the 
Second World War 1939-1945 a Prisoner of War Camp was built on the site. Today, nothing is left of these buildings less some areas to the South and West of the Barff where some of the brick foundations may be seen.
Between 2001 – 2004 the A63 Selby bypass, 10km twin lane single carriageway was constructed which severed the South West corner of the Barff, adjacent to Selby Golf Course and resulted in a slight redesign of several holes on the golf course. Wooden fencing was erected as a result of this new road running alongside of the Barff and a footbridge constructed over the ‘new road’ following the line of the Bridal way which extends from Mill Lane. Around 2005/2006 a definite 2metre wide limestone aggregate footpath was laid forming a circular path around the outer edges of the woodland. This footpath is approximately 1.2 miles in length and takes about 30 minutes to circumnavigate at a leisurely pace.
In 2012 the Barff was declared an Ancient Oak Woodland and as such throughout 2012 and 2013 significant work had been carried out by the relevant agencies to cut and remove large swathes of non-native trees, creating at that time huge scars on the landscape. Some three years later the planting of the native trees have become well established and are flourishing. Ongoing maintenance work on the footpath around the bottom of the Barff was completed during the Summer of 2016.
A second phase of woodland maintenance commenced during the Autumn of 2019 with the removal of many old and diseased trees and the cutting back of the Gorse and Broom bushes, especially adjacent to the ‘bypass trail’, this work continued through till March 2020 with re planting continuing into April 2020.
Brayton Barff is a popular site for walkers and bird watchers alike and a path circling the outer perimeter of the Barff makes a pleasant thirty minute walk, giving views looking over towards Selby and the village of Brayton as well as the power stations of Drax and Eggborough..jpg)
For the early risers it is a great place to see some stunning sunrises over the villages of Brayton looking towards Drax Power Station, the same with the Sunsets looking over towards Eggborough and Monk Fryston.
The Barff changes with the Seasons and every visit can reveal something new, the woodland is a haven for wildlife. Records show that since 1982 one hundred and twelve species of bird have been seen in the woodland and at least 40 of those have bred here, including Tawny Owl, Buzzard, Green Woodpecker, Spotted Flycatcher, Goldcrest and Nuthatch to name just a few. On average over 70 species of bird are recorded each year. Further details of the bird life on the Barff can be found on the Brayton Barff Group Facebook page, especially the posts from Derek Cooper. Today ‘The Friends of Brayton Barff group’ led by Derek and a small team of volunteers help keep and maintain the cleanliness of the site as well as recording the wildlife and bird sightings.
The Barff is also home to fifteen different species of mammals, including Muntjac Deer, Pipistrelle Bat, Fox, and Field Vole.
Over eighty species of plant and wildflowers have been recorded, included Bee Orchid, Northern Marsh Orchid, Wood Anemone, Marsh Ragwort, Bluebell, White Bluebell, Bittersweet and Purple and White Foxgloves. Over twenty species of Butterfly have been recorded, including Marbled White, Brown Angus, Speckled Wood, Comma and Brimstone.
During the Autumnal months fungi thrives in this woodland environment, species including Fly Agaric, Beefsteak Tree Fungi, Chicken of the Wood, Sulphur Tufts, Stinkhorn, Ink cap, Puffballs and Hoof Bracket are just some of the many varieties that can be found here.
Click on the galleries shown below to expand the albums.
August 2024
My monthly round up of my morning observations whilst walking Meg and Gracie on Brayton Barff.
Thursday 1st August, Yorkshire Day. What a contrast to the previous few days, We woke to heavy rain which persisted till mid-morning. A dull cloudy and overcast start to the month and a very wet and humid 16c walk around the Barff.
Fortunately, it looks as though the farmers have managed to harvest the wheat before the rain started. I have been away from the area this past week, so this morning was our first walk since last Thursday. It was quite noticeable the lack of birdsong amongst the woodland this morning,
Friday 2nd August, just a short walk this morning due to Gracie cutting one of her pads yesterday. A bright sunny morning, 15c.
Saturday 3rd August. A Dull, cloudy and overcast morning, very humid. 17c with a light westerly breeze. Birdsong very quiet. Another short walk with Gracie’s paw heavily bandaged.
Sunday 4th August, Another dull cloudy and overcast morning. 15c, very humid. Birdsong very quiet, the occasional Chiffchaff, Wren, Blackcap and Robin. Lots of Blue Knapweed shooting up along the Bypass trail. Gracie’s paw still strapped up but healing nicely.
Monday 5th August, A lovely morning, very humid, 18c. Yellow Fleabane flowering nicely on the top paddock. Heard several Goldcrest this morning. Bramble briars very bad. Gracie’s paw healing up nicely.
Tuesday 6th August, a dull cloud and overcast morning, rain during the early hours made it very wet underfoot. The Rowan Trees bright orange berries adding lots of colour to the woodland. A humid morning, 17c. I heard a very noisy Long Tailed Tit alarm calling in a holly bush
Wednesday 7th August, a beautiful, bright and sunny morning, 16c a cooler fresher westerly breeze made it a very pleasant walk. The Sparrowhawk was quite vocal this morning. Wren and Chiffchaff quite vocal too. Lots of wildflowers in full flower on the top paddock, including Great Willowherb and Common Fleabane.
Thursday 8th, a partly cloudy morning with sunny periods, we had a short circular walk this morning. I didn’t hear the Sparrowhawk this morning, but several Chiffchaff, Wren and a lone Dunnock was quite vocal along with several Robins. Still not seeing many insects on the flowering Ragwort. Rosebay and Common Willowherb flowering nicely all around the woodland.
Friday 9th August, 16c, a bright, dry sunny morning with a fresh westerly breeze. Sparrowhawk very vocal. A lone Wren was busily singing its head off as we made our way towards the old pump house.
Saturday 10th August a lovely, dry, bright and sunny morning. 18c. I heard and watched a young pair of Grey Squirrels squabbling in one of the bushes adjacent to the perimeter footpath, before they suddenly ran across the path and up a tree, all in a matter of seconds. Nice to hear the Sparrowhawk calling again in its usual spot, lots of Blackbirds going about their business on the woodland floor, busily turning the leaf litter whilst searching for food. Several Crows were alarm calling, their screeching call filled the air for a few minutes.
Sunday 11th August. Another dry bright and sunny morning, a little fresher than yesterday at 15c. I heard and watched a pair of Buzzards as they circled high above the Maze field just before the old pumping station. Nice to see the wheat fields are being harvested and bailed up, though the big field on the bypass side of the old pump house is still to harvest, let’s hope in can be harvested before the next batch of wet weather hits us. We headed off down the Bypass trail this morning, as we do most weekends, I was surprised how much the undergrowth is growing. Many of the Blackthorn bushes are well over a metre in height. Great and Rosebay Willowherb is flowering all over the woodland still, their tiny lilac-coloured florets adding a splash of colour now that the Creeping Thistles are turning to seed.
Monday 12th August, was a beautiful sunny morning, 15c, The Buzzard was very vocal, I watched a pair of them as they circled high above the Maise field adjacent to the old pump house, before they were hounded by a pair of Crows, equally as vocal.
Puffball fungus has been shooting up so to speak for a number of weeks now. Birdsong was relatively quiet again around the woodland, several Chiffchaff could be heard calling along with several Wren and Robin.
Tuesday 13th August, what a contrast to yesterday, this morning was dull, cloudy and overcast with occasional light rain showers whilst we were on the Barff, fortunately the tree canopy is extremely dense at this time so much of the rain didn’t reach the woodland floor. As is often the case when it’s a wet morning the birdsong was very quiet, with just the occasional Wren, Dunnock and Robin popping up here and there. Wood Pigeons can be heard in most places their gentle cooing being quite gentle on the ear, a little like listening to background music. I spotted some new polypore fungi growing on the side of a decaying Silver Birch tree this morning. A Yellow weather warning for thunder and heavy rain had been issued for this part of North Yorkshire today, fortunately, other than the occasional light shower we had no thunder or lightening nor flash flooding.
Wednesday 14th we woke up to a lovely, bright and sunny morning, it was extremely humid and 17c. Although quiet in the woodland this morning a Wren, Chiffchaff and Robin could be heard singing close to the car park area,
Thursday 15th August. Early morning rain made it quite wet underfoot. It was a dry and humid morning at 15c, the light westerly breeze kept the temperature down a little. The Rowan bushes are laden with fruit at this time. Birdsong was really quiet this morning, though a Wren and Chiffchaff were quite vocal as we approached the car park area of the woodland. Lots of Bird Vetch flowering nicely around the woodland, the St John’s Wort with its little yellow petaled florets which covered the top paddock for several weeks is beginning to fade and die back.
Friday 16th August, well, here we are just over halfway through August, where has the month gone? It was a dry and bright morning, a little cooler than yesterday at 13c, but still very humid. We had a short circular walk this morning as I was taking Meg & Gracie for a big walk around the Castle Howard estate later in the morning. It was nice to see the dappled sunlight breaking through the tree canopy as we made our way around the Barff, casting shadows across the perimeter footpath. Clusters of Elderberries are forming on the bushes though still quite tiny and green. The Bramble bushes on the other hand are bearing lots of ripened fruit just now.
Saturday 17th August, a dry, cloudy morning, slightly overcast first thing but the sun eventually broke through the low cloud before we left. It felt very quiet in the woodland this morning, a lone Wren was singing its head off, probably wondering where everyone else was. I heard and watched a handful of noisy Crows in the distance, squabbling over something or other, I usually watch them harassing the Buzzards, but not this morning. A little further on as we left the top paddock and walk around the top perimeter track I bumped into a pair of Jays, I don’t think they were very happy with me being there, their noisy, chattering, squawking, and screaming call is quite distinctive and sounded quite threatening at times, we left them to it and hurriedly moved off to another part of the woodland.
Sunday 18th August, was a very humid morning 15c, it was dry and bright and one of those mornings where you felt as though you could stop out all day enjoying the spoils of our beautiful countryside. Once the sun came out the temperature rose slightly, but the light westerly breeze removed the humidity and kept the temperature a very pleasant and comfortable 17c. I am still coming across lots of fresh Bank Vole holes along several tracks away from the perimeter footpath. It was very quiet in the woodland again this morning, it was nice to hear a small flock of Long Tailed Tits hiding amongst the Hawthorn hedge alongside the Bypass trail, their call is quite distinguishable, It usually starts with a string of soft of high-pitched whistles, sounding something like a ‘tsee-tsee-tsee’ sound accompanied with a light delicate whistle, I recognise it frequently as we walk around the woodland. As well as the Long-Tailed Tits, a Wren and Robin were quite vocal as were a pair of Willow Warblers, which I haven’t heard for a while, all accompanied by the gentle cooing sound of the Wood Pigeons.
Yellow Marsh Ragwort is still in flower though I am not yet seeing any caterpillars or Cinnabar moths on it and there is a lot of it scattered around the Barff at this time of year. As I crossed over the bypass, I noticed some flowering Alfalfa/Lucerne, a perennial flowering plant which is used for grazing, hay and silage and presume it has spread from the corn fields close by. Great Willowherb continues to flower around the woodland as does Common Fleabane, especially on the top paddock. It was good to see the field adjacent to the Barff had been harvested yesterday.
Monday 19th August. A dry, bright and sunny morning, 11c, much cooler than previous mornings. Wren, Robin and Blue Tit were all very chatty this morning. Found some Birds Foot Trefoil this morning on the top paddock, to be fair, now that I have found it it can be found all over the woodland. This lovely small yellow flowering plant is actually a member of the pea family, and is known by several names, ‘Granny’s toenails’, ‘Eggs and bacon’ and ‘hen and chickens’ to name but a few. It flowers between May to September, its small yellow flowers look like tiny slippers, once flowered the seed pods look like the bird’s feet or claws, hence its name. Although small, it is an important food source for the caterpillars of the common blue, silver studded blue and wood white butterflies.
Tuesday 20th August, 16c this morning, a dry, bright and sunny start, light overnight rain made it quite humid this morning. It was nice to hear the Sparrow Hawk calling close to the old pump house. Dappled sunlight through the trees cast all sorts of flickering patterns on the perimeter footpath. It was good to see the recently harvested field was all baled up this morning. Common Fleabane is still in full flower on the top meadow, as is the Great Willowherb, the Wild Teasel are standing between six to seven feet tall and have lost all their colour. Robin, Chiffchaff, Wren and Great Tit were out and about giving a little song here and there.
Wednesday 21st August, 13c, It was a dry and bright morning with a beautiful sunrise, we had an early (6.15am) short circular walk this morning as I was on a photographic assignment on the Swinton Estate, nr Masham mid-morning. Chiffchaff, Wren and Robin were quite vocal, and the Blackbirds were busily scratting under the leaf litter for their breakfast.
Thursday 22nd August, A very humid, dull and overcast morning. With a strengthening westerly wind. Birdsong was very muffled this morning and drown out by the noise of the wind blowing through the trees.
It was good to see the Barff Rangers had been busy cutting back the Bramble mass on the top paddock as well as cutting the grass back yesterday. It will need a few more days of hard work to complete the job though.
Friday 23rd August. After the heavy overnight rain, it was a dry and bright, sunny morning, 16c. and extremely windy, it was quite a dangerous gusting westerly gusting wind in excess of 40mph – 50mph. A yellow weather warning for strong winds from 5.00am till 11.00am for this part of North Yorkshire had been issued the night previous and for once the forecasters had got it right. Not only was it a windy morning but we woke up with no electricity, which didn’t get restored till much later in the morning. I was late up this morning and didn’t get onto the Barff till 8.00am, the strong gusting wind was blowing at well over 40mph and had caused significant damage to the woodland. The perimeter footpath was covered in leaf litter and twigs, and blocked close to the old pump house when a large branch from one of the Oak trees had been ripped off by the strength of the wind and laid across the path. I ventured off the path at this point and continued our walk along one of the many narrow tracks, unfortunately many of these tracks had become blocked too, not so much with the trees being blown down but by large branches been ripped off the tree trunks. It was the Oak trees that took most of the impact from the storm force winds, but many of the Sycamore trees also lost branches too, I have never seen such devastation in all the years I have been walking on the Barff as I saw this morning.
Saturday 24th August. It felt very quiet on the Barff this morning after yesterday morning’s storm. It was a dull, cloudy and overcast start to the day. 13c, rain was in the air, and we had several light showers whilst walking through the woodland. There was just a light westerly breeze this morning. Just looking around me as I stand in the woodland, I cannot believe how many trees have been affected by yesterday’s strong winds, fortunately I am not aware of anyone being injured from flying debris or tree branches whilst visiting the Barff during the storm. It was nice to see a mother Grouse out and about this morning in one of the recently harvested fields taking her young family for a walk, I counted at least six chicks following closely behind her, before they disappeared in the long grass on the edges of the field. It was nice to hear some birdsong this morning, a lone Robin was singing its head off very early on, followed by a Willow Warbler which I haven’t heard for a while, being accompanied by a Blackcap, Long Tailed Tit, Wren, Robin and Great Tit. I could have collected a bag of fallen apples along the bypass trail this morning.
Sunday 25th August. A beautiful mornings walk around the woodland earlier today, a little cooler at just 11c, with a very light westerly breeze, a dry bright and sunny start to the day. We were greeted with the sound of a pair of Crows having a disagreement, their harsh screeching squawking noise penetrating the silence in the woodland. A little further on a Robin was having a good sing perched high in one of the Elderberry bushes accompanied with a Wren and Coal Tit, producing a very melodic tune. I watched several Grey Squirrels running around amongst the tree canopy today, they seem to have been very quiet of late. Rowan berries are still looking bright and vibrant on the trees and the Elderberries which were several weeks behind the Rowan berries are now ripe and a lovely deep purple colour, a ready food source for our resident birds.
Monday 26th August, Bank holiday today, the last before Christmas! A lovely, dry and sunny morning, 15c and very humid. It was eerily quiet on the Barff, due to the lack of wind, the bypass noise could be heard all around the woodland. I heard a Buzzard alarm calling within minutes of arriving on the Barff this morning, it has been hanging about in one of the recently harvested fields adjoining the woodland for the past few days and I watched it for a few moments as it circled high above. It was nice to hear some Blue Tits singing this morning amongst the Brambles on the top paddock. Robins and Chiffchaff were both quite vocal in various places around the woodland this morning. Yellow Ragwort is still in flower and flowering Great Willowherb and Rosebay Willowherb are slowly passing their best with just the tips of the plants in flower. Lots of Bank Vole holes appearing along the tracks still, plenty of food for the Tawny Owls. Puffball fungi are still popping up along the tracks and trails around the woodland.
Tuesday 27th August, a gloomy start to the day, 13c, dry, dull and overcast, rain forecast later in the day. It was nice to hear a lot of Robins singing their heads of all around the woodland this morning. That said, Wren, Chiffchaff and Goldfinch were also quite vocal this morning too.
Wednesday 28th August, Another bright, dry and sunny morning 16c, Quite a bit of overnight rain but dry this morning. Robin, Chaffinch and Wren very vocal this morning. Greater Spotted Woodpecker alarm calling close to the car park. Elderberry bushes laden with fruit. First signs of Autumn with Sycamore leaves starting to die back and fall to the floor.
Thursday 29th August, a beautiful dry, bright and sunny morning, no wind, 14c but a very heavy dew. Very quiet first thing before a lone Robin came into song. I could hear a Buzzard calling in the distance around the old pump house but due to the density of the undergrowth couldn’t quite see it. I had a pleasant surprise as I walked alongside the sheep field this morning, a Green Woodpecker flew out of the Hawthorn hedge and started to hop and jump its way across the grass, not happy about being disturbed by a pair of rabbits playing alongside the hedge bottom. Its distinctive laughing Yaffle call alerted me to it on the first place, this is the first one I’ve seen on the Barff this year. A lovely morning to be on the Barff.
Friday 30th August, another beautiful morning, a little cooler than yesterday at 10c at 7.00am. Dappled sunlight casting shadows through the trees onto the perimeter footpath. Robin and Wren were both singing their heads off close to the car park, their melodic tunes quite lively and bright and put a smile on my face as we enjoyed the walk and warming sunshine. Fallen Sycamore leaves are beginning to litter the woodland floor, ranging in colours from lime green to yellow and finally bronze. It felt quite special walking along the footpath with the sun reflecting off the recently harvested fields on the left and casting a bright golden hue through the trees, for a moment I thought I was walking along the golden beaches of the Amalfi coast!
Saturday 30th August, brr, a definite chill in the air this morning just 7c at 7.00am. A dry, bright and sunny morning, with a cool westerly breeze blowing across the Barff. A lone Robin was doing its best to lift the spirits with a vigorous song, closely followed by a Wren and collard Dove purring in the background. A lovely morning for a walk in the fresh air.
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